Big Day: 03 Nov 2007
Countdown: Already Married!
Rachel & Sanjay
India Diary
Where better to have an Indian wedding than in India?!

And what a fantastic adventure we had.

We stayed at the the Casablanca Beach Resort in Candolim. Their website is here

Thankyou so much to those of you who came along and made it such an unforgettable trip.

Here is our holiday diary, we hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed being there! (Please excuse the grammar, this program doesn't recognise oppostrophes!)

See page below for photographs


Our adventure in India
October 2007

Saturday 13th

We met Kathryn, Claire, Lindsay, Ritu, Keeran & Sian at Heathrow airport in a cafe. Everyone was very excited and we all had coffee and a good gossip while we waited for check-in to open so we could get rid of our suitcases.

We went for a meal and a cocktail at TGI Fridays and then made our way to the departure lounge. Heathrow Airport being as large as it is, we were quite amazed to end up sitting behind Sonia & Herbie who were on their way to Delhi for a few days before they flew down to meet us in Goa.

We boarded the plane at about 9pm and after getting particularly excited with hot towels, foot hammocks and individual entertainment stations we settled down to watch movies. Kathryns shoes stank so much that she had to put them in a plastic bag for the journey!!


Sunday 14th

We landed in Mumbai at about 11am local time. And it was hot!!! Like stepping into a sauna. After the painfully slow procedure of re-checking our bags had to leg it across the airport and queue jump the security checks in order to catch the shuttle bus. Then we were on the internal flight to Goa which took about 45 minutes (just enough time to watch an episode of Frasier).

When we got to Dabolim Airport in Goa, we realised that Lindsays suitcase had not made it. Arrrrrghh!! so she reported it and filled in forms etc and the staff assured her that they would bring it from Mumbai on the next flight and send it to our hotel.

Sanj and Keeran took on the task of negotiating a taxi for us (while us obvious white-faced tourists stayed out of sight to avoid being ripped off!) and we managed to get a 7-seater to fit us all in. The suitcases were somewhat precariously strapped to the roof and we kept a close eye on the road behind us all the way as expected to see our luggage fall off!

The journey to Candolim was about an hour and quite an experience for those of us used to the safe and well-maintained roads of Britain.

We arrived at Casablanca Beach Resort and checked in. The hotel was lovely and our rooms were all close to each other overlooking the pool and bar area.

After settling into our rooms we went for a walk along Candolim Beach which was just at the end of the road. The MV River Princess, an Iron Ore tanker which became grounded in 2000, loomed into view. We saw our first of many beautiful sunsets across the sea and headed back up the beach before it got too dark.

When we got back to the hotel, we again realised just how slow things move in Goa, as about an hour and a half after ordering some dinner, it arrived when most of us were too tired to eat and we all went off to bed.

Monday 15th

Most of us were still pretty shattered from the journey, and also not a good nights sleep. You either have the choice to be nice and cool by leaving the air-con unit on - the down side of this being it sounds like sleeping next to a jet engine. Or you have the air-con off and it is uncomfortably hot.

So the girls decided to spend the day at the hotel, there was nobody else there so we had it all to ourselves - the wonderful pool, sunloungers, bar staff on hand to bring us 7ups (theres something so special about drinking out of a glass bottle) and ice creams. Sanj & Keeran went for a walk to explore the surrounding area.

At 5 oclock, Sanj and I caught a taxi to The Taj Holiday Village, the hotel where our Hindu wedding was to be held on Friday, as we had a meeting with the wedding planners. The Taj was breathtaking, in all its 5-star splendour. The wedding planners, Ankit & Pramit met us and we walked down to the gardens where the showed us the spot for our wedding. At this time is was still just a lawn overlooking the sea but they explained how they would set up the area for the ceremony and reception.

Then we discussed tomorrows beach wedding, planned to take place on Calamari Beach, a short distance up from Candolim. My heart sank when they said we have a problem with tomorrows location - the area which we planned to use has been washed away!.
But then they told us that they have a much nicer location in South Goa, about an hours drive away. They had also arranged a coach to transport all the guests there & back and an air-conditioned car for the bride, so needless to say, panic over!

We got back to Casablanca and more of our guests had arrived - Sanjs Mum, Dad, Sister & Brother, some Aunties, Uncles & Cousins who had travelled down from the Punjab and the Ladwa Family - Vina, Raju, Danny & Poonam.

We all sat round a big table in the restaurant by the pool and had dinner. Sanj and I gave out invitations for the beach wedding and told everybody about the change of location and that we were all travelling down to South Goa by coach.

Lindsays suitcase also arrived! So she could now wear her own clothes at last.

Tuesday 16th

After breakfast, Kathryn, Claire, Lindsay, Sanj & I all headed into Calangute, the town about 10 minutes drive away. We wandered around all the market stalls and pored over the bags, jewellery, local arts etc. We got into the whole haggling culture pretty quickly. Funny how things drop to a quarter of the price simply by saying no, thanks and starting to walk away!

It was very hot and dusty so we stopped in a caf for a round of cold drinks. Again we were all like excited little kids just because the drinks come in glass bottles! And even better, they cost 15 rupees (about 19p). My hair had been attracting stares since we arrived in India and this was now progressing to people taking photos and a bus-load of schoolchildren shouting and waving as they went passed us. They shouted even louder when we waved back, we felt like celebrities.

After a couple of purchases of handbags, bangles etc we decided to head back to the hotel and braved a rickshaw ride (basically a motorbike with a shell built round it so it has a back seat for 2-3 people).

Back at Casablanca, we didnt even have time to grab any lunch as the hairdresser/makeup artist was waiting for me. So I had a quick shower and sat down. It wasnt particularly relaxing as we were quite unprepared so there were lots of people coming and going, someone brought me some food so I could eat while having my hair done, and before I knew it the photographer was here too. So my getting ready photographs are less than glamorous - me wearing just a towel while Danny (who was giving me away and therefore travelling in the bridal car with me) ironing my dress with a travel iron on the TV table!

I got into my dress - a fishtail white raw silk skirt and corseted strapless bodice and Danny did up the fiddly little buttons at the back. On my feet are my white flip flops which have just married cut out of the soles so they imprint the words in the sand, and on the toe bars I have stuck little diamante letters so they say I do.

So we are ready to go - we checked with reception who told me all the guests are on the coach round the corner so the coast is clear. Danny and I made our way to the car and we are off. I was pretty nervous on the way there, and very conscious that the beautiful ringlets the hairdresser had put in my hair were very rapidly going straight!

Our car arrived and I was told to wait in the car (which I didnt object to as the air-con was great!). Danny popped out to see what was happening and to give someone my handbag for safekeeping. Ankit the wedding planner came to greet me and asked me if I wanted my bookie. It wasnt until he said it several times and then called it a bridal bookie that I realised he was on about my bouquet! Pramit, the guy in charge of flowers and decoration brought me my flowers which were just lovely, although did contain Anthuriums which I think look rather phallic!

The priest then came to the car window to introduce himself - one cool chap! Looked like a mix between Lando Calrisian and Lionel Richie and was very very nice. Siani came up to the window to check some details with me, such as did I want the bridesmaids to lead me or follow me. The previous night, I had asked Sanjs Mum and Vina, the two mums, to be my bridesmaids. Sian also told me that the setting looked beautiful and that they were all enjoying a welcome drink.

A few minutes later Danny came back to say that everyone is ready when I am, so I got out of the car and attempted to put my veil on, but as there was quite a breeze I decided to abandon that and leave it in the car.

We walked down onto the sand which was not like the sand on our beach in Candolim, but more like a Bounty advert! Soft as flour and really white, I could see now why people prefer the beaches of South Goa. There were a few steps where Vina and Sanjs Mum were waiting with their bouquets in hand, smaller versions of mine.

Thats when I saw the wedding set-up, and wow! It looked incredible, there was a red carpet aisle leading from the steps, an archway and loads of flowers on pedestals lining the aisle. Chairs were set out either side which had matching chaircovers and were tied with ribbons to match the fabrics in the archway and the gazebo at the end where Sanj was waiting for me. Two musicians in traditional dress played while we walked along the red carpet.

The ceremony was really really nice. The priest was great and the musicians played quietly throughout the service. We had asked some of our friends to do readings too, first the priest called up Kathryn & Claire who read between them Yes Ill marry you by Pam Ayres. Then Poonam read How do I love thee? by Elizabeth Barrett Browning. After this, Sanjs Mum read a poem called On your wedding day and to finish off, Sian read The art of a good marriage by Wilferd Arlan Peterson.

After this we were asked to stand and were handed our vows. We had chosen to write our own. I went first as I was worried how long I would be able to contain my emotions! I got about a third of the way through, then as my bottom lip started to tremble, there was a unified sob from the side of the guests with all the girls on! By the time Sanj had finished his vows there was not a dry eye in the house! Well, on the beach...

All our guests came up to offer congratulations and lots of hugs & kisses. We all posed for photos after the ceremony then made our way up the red carpet aisle to the archway where our wedding cake had now appeared. The Priest did a speech about the origins of the wedding cake then we cut it and gave each other a little bit.

The guests then made their way up to the beach shack where we had tables set out for us, and Sanj and I went for a walk down to the sea. The photographer and videographer followed us but I was in a little bubble and hardly noticed they were there! We had a paddle in the sea and received a few handshakes and congratulations from holidaymakers & locals who had been matching the wedding. We even convinced a man with a jet ski to let us pose for some photographs on it (although he did start off trying to charge us a few hundred rupees for the privilege!)

It was really nice having that time together and there was a glorious sunset over the water so the beach looked stunning. A few friends made their way down the beach to join us and said how much they had enjoyed the wedding. Then we all headed back up to the beach shack for cocktails and dinner. I bet not many brides have shark for dinner on their wedding day!

At about 9pm we all made our way back to the coach (the little track leading to the road where the coach was waiting was now pitch black so we all stumbled there by the light of a few mobile phones!) and drove back to the hotel.

I realised on the journey back that I was still holding my bouquet and had forgotten to throw it! So when we arrived back at Casablanca we got all the girls to wait in the drive and I stood on the reception steps. One, two, three?..and I threw it up - it then hit the reception roof, exploded into a shower of foliage, and what was left of it landed right back in my hands!! Which was ironic as I was actually the next person due to get married...

Take two - this time it went in the right direction and was caught by Sanjays Cousin Susan.

We made our way to the bar and were greeted by our friends Sonia & Herbie who had arrived that evening after their trip to Jammu.

Wednesday 17th

A very early start, I left the hotel with Vina, Raju, Danny, Poonam, Keeran & Sian at 5.30am as we had to go to the airport to pick Louise up from her early flight into Goa. We drove into the capital, Panjim and stopped at a cafe to order some paratha for breakfast.

We then went to the Basilica (church) of St Francis of Assisi. The Saints remains are displayed there in a golden casket. We wandered round, looked at the artwork and gardens and were slightly amused at the sign which forbids anyone from lighting firecrackers in the church (as if we were considering it!).

By this time it was 10am and we had arranged to meet the others at the multiplex cinema so we got in our faithful taxi and were on our way. Made use of the facilities while we were there!

Our main objective of the day was sari shopping so our first stop was the Bombay Bazaar. There was so much to choose from and most of the girls were soon kitted out in saris, all colours of the rainbow. I bought two lovely saris for myself, a lemon & silver one and a deep turquoise & pink one. Kathryn, Claire, Lindsay, Sian & Poonam had also bought saris so we all got measured up by the tailor for our blouses (having your boobs measured by a strange man was a new experience for most of us!).

We then went to try and find somewhere for lunch. We went up into a restaurant to see if they had enough seats for us (there were about 11 of us) and the owner unlocked a secret door to reveal a private dining room just for special visitors! So we all sat down at the long table to a fantastic feast. We had so much food, drink, and even ice creams & desserts and paid about 4 pounds each, including dinner for our taxi drivers!

More sari shopping beckoned - I still had to get all my bridesmaids outfits yet. We found another sari shop a few streets away, a more traditional one. We all had to leave our shoes outside and then went to the back of the shop where we went up some steps to a sort of mezzanine. The floor was all covered with mattresses and we all sat down.

Then the show started! The whole back wall was jammed with saris from floor to ceiling in every possible colour you could imagine. All we had to do was mention a colour, he would pull a handful of saris out and throw them up in the air so they opened and the fabric would come tumbling out over us. Then we would all inspect it and look at the fine embroidery and beading.

After a whole afternoon of taking it in turns to stand up and be draped in beautiful fabrics, I ended up with a gorgeous red and gold wedding sari and a set of pink bridesmaid saris. Louise bought a light turquoise one and Vina got a salmon pink one.

We then went on a jewellery expedition! The markets turned out to be the best place for bangles and we found a fantastic stall, again where bangles of every shade of every colour you could think of were stacked on shelves about 10 feet high. The stall holder could tell our bangle size just by feeling our wrists.

After sweating in the sweltering heat of the bangle market we stepped out for some much needed fresh air. A groups of girls came up to us and were shaking our hands and asking our names. When we answered them they would giggle like they were all starstruck! Then they asked if they could have their picture taken with us and for about 10 minutes we had to pose in various combinations with the girls as they all took photos on each others battered old 35mm cameras.

Most of the gang headed home while Me, Claire & Vina shopped for bridal jewellery and a bridesmaid outfit for my niece Shannon, but without any luck. We were getting rather frustrated by the end of it no matter how many times you say what size she is, and that the outfit must be either pink & white or pink & orange, that seems to translate to them as any size from baby to adult, and any colour combination except the one you ask for!! By about 8pm we were tired & hungry and decided to give up and go back to the hotel.

My Dad & Stepmum Carolyn were sat in the bar with the rest of the gang when we got back, they had been travelling for the past week and a half. They told us all about their trip so far - they had flown to Delhi, done the Golden Triangle tour (Agra & Taj Mahal, Jaipur, Udaipur) then spent a few days in Mumbai before flying down to Goa.

Thursday 18th

The girls spent Thursday morning relaxing on the sunloungers by the pool, soaking up some sunshine and having a gossip and a bit of a read. We couldnt use the pool as the pool-cleaner was coming to replace the chemicals in the afternoon so some of us got taxis up the road into Calangute. I bought matching gold sandals for all my bridesmaids, a bit of jewellery and a few tops. Sonia, Louise, Vina, Poonam, Keeran, Siani, Sanjay & I stopped for some lunch then we headed back to the hotel.

As the pool man hadnt finished with our pool, they said we could use the pool of a neighbouring hotel. So we got our things and plodded down the road for a lovely swim in their nice big pool. Afterwards, back at Casablanca I bumped into Vina & Louise who were on their way to the beach so I joined them for a bit of a walk.

We were having tea on Thursday night when we got some very exciting news - our saris had arrived!!! The blouses had been stitched to our measurements and delivered to us.

After tea Sanjays relatives took him out for dinner, and all my friends and family did my haldi ceremony. This is the pre-wedding tradition where a yellow paste is made with turmeric and everyone covers me in it. They give me blessings and a few rupees and I end up looking like one of The Simpsons! When I was all covered in haldi, it was starting to sting my face a bit, and not wanting to risk a day-before-the-wedding allergic reaction I went for a shower.

When I got back it was time for mehndi - painting the girls hands with henna patterns. I had asked Louise (who is an artist) to do my bridal mehndi so she set to work on a beautiful intricate design. Sonia and Vina did all the other womens hands. We chatted away until about midnight when everyone else had designs done and my amazing mehndi was complete - both hands, both sides. We all applied lemon juice & sugar to our hands to help the henna set, and put plastic bags on our hands.

I then realised that I hadnt really planned very well as I now could not use my hands, so Danny had to take my contact lenses out for me! I was staying in Lindsays bedroom that night and she also had to get me ready for bed and even help me to the loo! We decided it was easier for me just to sleep in my clothes.

Friday 19th


On Friday morning, Sanjay and I went for a walk in Candolim. We went to the massage parlour where Louise & Vina had been for a massage. Danny & Poonam were in there having massages, so Sanj & I booked ourselves one for Sunday morning.

Back at the hotel the pool was all cleaned so we went for a swim to try and relax before the big day started! The hairdresser/beautician arrived before midday but seeing as the wedding was not til 4 oclock I told her that I needed to chill out and did not want to sit in a bedroom for 4 hours getting ready!!!

I had arranged to get ready for the Hindu wedding in Lindsays room so I wouldnt be as stressed as before and have people coming and going. I laid out all my clothes and jewellery on the bed and then sat down in front of the mirror. The hairdresser styled my hair in a fancy up-do and did my quite traditional Indian bridal makeup with lots of eyeliner.

The bride always has an assistant with her in the mandap (bridal altar) and I had asked Louise to play this role and also accompany me to the wedding. She was only in the room next door anyway so when she was ready, in the fabulous aqua coloured sari she had bought on Wednesday and diamante jewellery, she came to help me get ready.

Vina came up too and put me into the red sari which we also got on our shopping day out on Wednesday. She pinned it into my hair the way a bride wears a sari and then put my tika in my hair (the tika is an ornamental piece of jewellery which comes in the set with my earrings and necklace, it runs along the parting to my forehead).

Louise then put on my choora - a special set of 21 red & cream wedding bangles and kalira which are bangles with gold decorations dangling from them about 2 feet long. (Traditionally the purpose of kalira is to make housework impossible, so the bride can relax in the time following the wedding). I also had a fancy gold bracelet for each hand which had 5 rings attached on chains so that they go across the back of my hands and onto each finger. They looked great against my mehndi which had gone really dark and looked fantastic.

The photographer was also here and capturing the dressing of the bride. Sanjays family were taking ages to get ready and me & Louise had to wait for them as I had to be the last to arrive. We went out onto the balcony for some more photos and thats when I felt a few raindrops!!!

The photographer assured me that it never rains this time of year as the monsoon had finished late September so not to worry, but the rain didnt stop. Finally we got the message from reception that all the guests had gone and they had a taxi waiting for us. I had to rather unglamorously walk with a plastic bag over my head to try and save my hair from the rain!!

The taxi ride was only a few minutes to The Taj Hotel and I was very excited to imagine how impressed the guests would have been when they arrived, as it is so posh. A golf buggy took Louise and I down through the gardens and to where the wedding was being held.

Again - WOW!!!! There was an archway made of dozens of fresh flowers at the end of a red carpet aisle, and pedestals with flower displays which had rangoli (mosaic patterns made on the floor) made from flower petals around their bases. The chairs were set out each side with white chair covers tied with a red bow. Then there was a raised stage with steps leading up to it. A Hindu wedding ceremony is performed under a sacred canopy called a mandap. Our mandap was like a pavillion with a domed roof all covered in fresh flowers, it was absolutely magnificent.

Our guests were all waiting (with umbrellas and looking a bit soggy!) but still looking stunning in their saris. I was met at the floral archway by Vinas husband Raju and lead down the aisle with my girls following me. I left my shoes by the aisle and stepped up into the mandap (which was quite slippery due to the rain).

First I was stood facing Sanjay although there was a white sheet held between us so I couldn?t see him. (I thought at this point that someone might be playing a trick on me and put someone else there in his place, so I took a good look at his feet and recognised that they were in fact his!). The priests chanted something and removed the sheet and we exchanged flower garlands. I am glad that they were made of fresh flowers as at weddings in England they are usually fake and can look a bit cheap and tinselly BUT I hadnt banked on them being so heavy!! They really weighed a lot.

Then Sanjay put my mangalsutra (wedding necklace - equivalent of a western wedding ring) round my neck. The ceremony was all pretty cofusing, there were various people doing various things and nobody really explaining anything. Much of it was carried out by Dad & Carolyn with me & Sanj - none of whom speak Hindi so we had no idea what we were being asked to do!

About half way through Sanjs Uncle Romi came up and sat in the mandap, he speaks very good English so we started to understand a bit more of what was happening, although it still seemed like the priests spent most of the time arguing between themselves! With all the jewellery, flower garlands etc it was quite difficult sitting down and getting up so I was so grateful that Louise was there to help us. Sanjs scarf was tied to my sari at one point in the ceremony which made it even more tricky.

We had to put various things - oil, water, fruits etc in the hawan (holy fire) and walk around it, and also I had to walk through seven piles of rice which represented the seven steps. By the time the ceremony had finished it was dark and it had been raining throughout so we were all drenched (although as it was so hot that it was very refreshing).

We posed for photos with everyone and then our wedding planner came and spoke to us. Our reception had all been set out next to where the ceremony was but the rain meant it was all wet through and it was dangerous to use all the lighting they had laid out. While we were getting married they had arranged with the hotel for them to close the restaurant for our private use.

Again, as The Taj is a 5 star hotel you can imagine how nice this was!
We were served with endless drinks and lovely appetisers. The restaurant had open sides looking out over a courtyard. Music suddenly started and a group of African performers came running in. They entertained us for about 45 minutes with incredible acrobatics and even a limbo display which me, Louise and Ritu were picked to join in!

After their show we all took our seats and had dinner, the most sumptuous buffet. The desserts were particularly fancy - all on mini glass dishes of varying sizes and colours which you then piled onto a big plate. It was all soooo nice.

While we were having dinner there were more entertainers, and they were quite cheesy! There was a host/compere who was introducing the acts and in between, telling really bad jokes. First we watched Goan dancers in traditional costume. Then two men did a martial arts display (with some questionably martial arts such as balancing a football on a stick in his mouth!!). They also stuck knives in each other and did acrobatics and things, one of them had a lovely excited facial expression like a little chipmonk. After them, there was (quite bizarrely) a hula hoop display! It was all a bit surreal but we were all in such a fabulous mood that we were loving every minute of it. After the two hula hooping girls (which kept making us laugh when the compere called them hoopa-loopers) had finished their tricks, there were a few traditional portuguese dances in national costume.

The rain had eased off by now so we went to sit out in the courtyard (on wet chairs, but again we werent bothered as we were all having a great time). The two men then did a fire display - blowing it, juggling with it, swinging it around, all sorts. And the two hoopa-loopa girls were back - this time with their hoops on fire!! Cue a slightly concerning moment when two of the on fire bits flew off the hoop towards us!

After all the entertainment had finished we then moved to a function room where we had a private disco. The bhangra started and the party began. I was most surprised of all to see my Dad (who I dont recall witnessing on a dance floor in 27 years of knowing him) leap off his chair and up to join us!

It was so much fun, we all danced the night away. It was rather difficult for me to dance as my kalira (the dangly gold things) kept getting caught in my sari, there were bits of them flying off in all directions and I was thinking I would end up doing someone an injury (good job we had so many doctors there)
The photographer took us outside for some couple shots, although we had been dancing all night which will explain why we look so sweaty! Another amazing wedding!

Saturday 20th

We had organised a day trip for 14 of us (Me & Sanj, Keeran & Siani, Louise, Danny & Poonam, Kathryn, Claire, Lindsay, Vina & Raju, Sonia & Herbie with our fantastic taxi drivers. After breakfast we all piled in to the taxis and drove to the first stop - elephant rides! Sian & Keeran, Lindsay & Claire and Louise & I got on (quite ungracefully) and they took us up and down a track amongst the trees.

Each elephant had a rider on top and a handler walking with it, Claire gave the handler her camera so he could take some pictures - the elephant must not have liked this idea as it got the camera in its trunk and threw it into some bushes!!

After elephant rides and the whole group posing with the animals for some photographs, we got back in the taxis and made our way to the second stop - Sahakari Spice Farm. We had only just got out the taxi when Kathryns flip flop gave up. Almost certain disaster was avoided by Sian and Claires quick thinking and an elasticated hairband!!

We walked up a pathway surrounded by a beautiful array of plants and trees, this lead us to a wooden walkway. All the bridges and fences etc were decorated with garlands made from fresh flowers. We were welcomed by two girls throwing petals over us, placing flower garlands round our necks and giving us a tilak (dot of red powder on our foreheads). We were shown to a round hut where we were given a drink of hot lemongrass and we could pick small sweet bananas from a huge bunch. The guide met us and started explaining about the spice plantation, before leading us out to begin the tour.

The tour was brilliant, it was like walking through the jungle! The guide would stop every few minutes and explain what each plant was, what spices/fruits grew there, how they grew, how they were picked and prepared for selling, what they were used for etc. It was really fascinating.

Around the banana trees there were massive yellow & black spiders hanging in their webs. There were also lots of other beasties lurking as we all got bitten quite badly!

At the end of the tour the guide explained how the spice workers had a tradition when they finished a days work, and that they insisted all visitors followed this tradition. We all lined up and one by one went up to the guide who had a big pot of water, he scooped up a ladle full of water and poured it down the back of our neck, which went all the way down to our trousers! Explained why so many people were wandering round with wet bums anyway, and made some very amusing photographs too.

We then ate a delicious buffet lunch served on wooden plates lined with a big banana leaf, and were given a shot of the popular local spirit, fenny (or in Rajus case, 4 shots of fenny!). We all were presented with a souvenir pack of spices and after a quick look at the gift shop and a few group photos, we went back to the taxis.

The walk through the jungle in such humidity took its toll on everyone, as we all fell asleep within a few minutes of setting off. We stopped to visit a mandir (Hindu Temple) on the way back which was nice, and we met a rather mangey but nevertheless adorable cat.

When we got back to Casablanca we had a swim to cool down, the pool rules state that the pool closes at 6pm but seeing that our gang had been almost the only guests at the hotel that week and we had got to know all the staff well we didnt think they would mind so we stayed in. It got dark and started to rain heavily and even a thunderstorm broke out and we still stayed in the pool! It was great.

We eventually got out about 8pm when the lightning was getting stronger and went for some food at the sports bar round the corner. The storm kept making all the power go off.

At this time of year, a Gujarati festival called Navratri (the festival of nine nights) is held. It is celebrated with a garba, a traditional dance. We had heard that a garba was being held in the city so our faithful taxi drivers took us to find it.

The garba was in a school, everyone was dressed in traditional clothing and jewellery and the whole place was decorated with lights. The rain stopped for a while so the dance was taken outside into a courtyard which was fantastic as obviously with the time of year, we can never dance garba outside in England.

Unfortunately it wasnt to be a great experience - the locals were rather unfriendly and racist and not very welcoming at all. They were rude to us when we tried to join in the dance and we decided to leave, however not before Vina had found the organiser and given him a piece of her mind!!!

Lindsay, Kathryn, Claire and I dropped everyone else off back at the hotel and decided to go to Baga beach to find somewhere to watch the rugby. All the bars were so crowded that people were hanging around outside, so we decided to abandon this idea and just have a tour of the area from the comfort of our taxi.

We headed back through the towns and our car suddenly came to a stop, in fact all the traffic had and we couldnt understand why. We opened the window and the taxi driver pointed towards the road. We thought there had been another accident (with the way they drive in India road accidents were pretty frequent). Then we saw it - a bloody great python slithering across the road! It was about 6 feet long and all the cars and bikes had stopped so it could pass. Fantastic to see but we agreed that we were glad we didnt find it while out for a walk!

Sunday 21st

Our last day in Goa. We got up early to pack our suitcases and then took a walk into Candolim as we had booked in for a massage at 10am. And what a massage! It was quite a strange experience being stark naked and rubbed all over (and I mean all over) by a complete stranger but I have to say it was absolutely amazing!

We finished packing and had a last lunch at the hotel. We said our goodbyes to the staff and to those of us staying in India, and said hello to Dmitry who had just arrived to join Louise, Vina & Raju and Keeran & Sian on their trip to Gokarna (Dmitry is a teacher so couldnt come out to India until half term). Then the homeward bound crew ? Sanj & I, Kathryn, Claire, Lindsay and Ritu got taxis to Dabolim Airport with Sonia & Herbie who were flying up to Delhi.

After taking lots of photographs of our suitcases in case bad luck was to strike again, we managed to get on an earlier flight up to Mumbai. It then turned out that all the flights were delayed, so this earlier flight actually turned out to leave after our original one would have! But we got free drinks & snacks while we waited.

When they called us for our flight we could see the plane parked outside the departure lounge, could not have been more than 100ft away but we still had to get a bus to it! Rather amusing.

We arrived in Mumbai at about 5.30pm and arranged to hire two taxis for the evening. Mumbai was really busy and noisy, and as it was the last day of Navratri, the Durga Puja was being held (to acknowledge the Goddess Durga when she killed the demon Mahishasura). There were big statues of Durga being driven around the streets on the back of trucks and people were parading and celebrating.

The taxi driver was a bit pushy and kept trying to take us to an art shop (which must have been owned by a friend or family member) and we had to refuse about 10 times saying we didnt want to go shopping, we had no money left etc

We were on our way to visit the Hare Krishna Temple, with it being so busy we decided to just go somewhere to eat after that then come back to the airport as we didnt want to get stuck in any traffic and worry about being late.

The Temple was a great place to visit and there was plenty to see. Around the sides there were models depicting mythical tales of Gods & Goddesses, stories about Krishna etc. And best of all, there were lots of bald-headed orange-robed monks!

After a slice of monk-made pineapple cake and reclaiming our shoes, we then had some dinner and a delicious fruit smoothie at a nice caf bar. It was now about 8pm and even though our flight wasnt until 1am we just wanted to go to the airport so we werent worried about the traffic. Plus we were all pretty knackered and just wanted a sit down.

The taxi driver really didnt take too kindly to this, even though we had not said anything to the contrary. He was shouting at us all the way back and saying we had ruined his evening, also saying we had agreed to go to lots of places which we hadnt at all. He was also trying to get us to pay more money than we had agreed, it was all a bit scary.

We made a plan to get all our bags out of the cars before we handed over any money as the drivers were scaring us more and more as the journey progressed. But finally we were back at Mumbai Airport and could breathe a sigh of relief.

After spending a few hours reading & snoozing on the very comfortable loungers, we boarded the plane back to Heathrow.

It was an unforgettable adventure and an absolutely fantastic way to get married.